Because the dry cleaning process is different from washing laundry in a regular machine, it’s important to know what pieces of clothing actually need to be dry cleaned and what pieces can just be washed at home.

Sometimes it’s easy to tell which pieces of clothing need to be dry cleaned and which pieces of clothing don’t without even looking at the label. You might be surprised, though, at how many clothing items you would assume don’t need any special care do, and how many you might think need special consideration don’t. That’s why it’s always important to check the label.

If your clothing is missing care labels, you’re not sure whether or not a certain item has to be dry cleaned or not, or think that a certain item really should be dry cleaned, check out our guide. In it, we’ve outlined the things that you should and shouldn’t dry clean.

What You Should be Dry Cleaning

Linen

Not all linen items need to be dry cleaned, but certain items, especially those that are embellished should be taken to the dry cleaner. Linen can be especially difficult to iron and keep smooth so having it washed at the dry cleaner and then properly pressed may be easier than taking the time to do it yourself.

Rayon

It may be a semi-synthetic fabric, but rayon is not a fabric that should be washed at home. Because dyes can bleed when its washed and because it may lose its shape, shrink, or become misaligned, having rayon pieces of clothing dry cleaned is the best option.

Silk

Because it’s a completely natural and delicate material, silk clothing pieces should be cleaned at the dry cleaner. If not properly cared for, silk can lose its soft feel and “silkiness” as well as its beautiful luster. Having silk pieces dry cleaned can help preserve and protect the fabric.

Wo​ol

It’s fairly common knowledge that washing wool the wrong way will cause it to shrink. Maybe you’ve already learned that the hard way. The best way to ensure that wool clothing pieces retain their proper size and feel is by having them cleaned by the dry cleaner.

Leather

Leather and clothing items can be tricky. Although some stains and soiled spots may be easily cleaned at home, others will not be so easy to manage. By having leather clothing items cleaned at the dry cleaner, you can avoid cracking and damage, preserving your favorite pieces for longer.

Lined Items

Any item with a lining should be taken to the dry cleaner. It’s easy for the lining and outside of a piece of clothing to become separated, making it uncomfortable to wear and even causing it to become misshaped.

What Does Not Need Dry Cleaning

Cotton

Be sure to follow the proper care instructions and wash cotton items in the right water temperature. Although they do not need to be cared for at the dry cleaner, cotton clothing items can become misshapen and shrunk if washed the wrong way.

Synthetic Fabrics

Synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon, and spandex are easy enough to wash at home. It is best to wash them on a delicate cycle and lay them flat or hang them to dry to ensure they stay as good as new, though.

Denim

Because jeans are made to be casual and comfortable, taking them to the dry cleaner isn’t necessary. Most jeans should be able to handle a regular wash cycle and can be thrown in with your weekly loads of laundry.

Cashmere

Believe it or not, cashmere clothing items do not need to be dry cleaned. Be careful when washing this luxurious fabric, though. Cashmere items shouldn’t be thrown in with the regular wash - they need to be washed by hand with a mild detergent in order to preserve their softness and shape.

If you still aren’t sure whether or not you should be dry cleaning a certain clothing item, contact us. We know how important your favorite pieces of clothing are and we want to help you make sure it stays in the best condition possible. That’s why we make it easy for you to take care of your favorite clothing items with little to no hassle!

Cold weather is here, so it may be time for a refresher on how to properly take care of down blankets, pillows, sleeping bags, and jackets. Did you know that good maintenance and storage are essential to prolonging the life of these cozy (and often expensive) items?

Read on to learn about how, why, and when you should clean your down-stuffed items. Plus, learn about DWR material and how to take care of "down alternative" blankets and sleeping bags, too.

Down With Dirt and Oil

If not regularly cleaned, oils and sweat from skin or external exposure will start to damage down feathers, causing them to clump and lose their loft—which is what makes down warm in the first place! Read on to learn about the importance of taking a few simple steps to protect your down items from dirt and moisture.

Snacking in bed? Put a duvet or sheet over your comforter!

• When you’re in a down sleeping bag or wearing a down jacket, always wear a complete base layer underneath to minimize the amount of exposure to the naturally-occurring oils on your skin.

• If you have a down comforter, use a duvet and sheets.

• If down items get a small spill or stain, try gently dabbing with a clean, damp rag, but you cannot use regular soap or detergent, as this will damage the filling. Making a habit of wearing a windbreaker over down jackets will help kids (and adults) avoid messes. Plus, you get a bonus layer of warmth and weather protection!

So, how do I clean Down?

At least once a season, you should clean your down jackets, blankets, sleeping bags, etc, even if they’re not visibly dirty. Sweat and oils will eventually cause the material to lose its loft. Additionally, soiled fabric can actually encourage microbes to damage the feathers themselves!

Because down is so tricky to wash, dry-cleaning is always a good option. Some down items can be cleaned in a front-loading washer only. Do NOT use top-loading machines for these delicate items: the agitator in top-loading machines can tear the external fabric or ruin the baffles (internal dividers that keep sections of down in place).

• If you do decide to clean down items at home, you should also be aware that any “regular” detergent, even if it’s labeled gentle, will leave residue on the feathers that attracts moisture, which will damage the loft. Specialized down-only wash is available, but you may need to visit an outdoor gear retailer to find it.
• Making sure down items are dried properly is also crucial. If the item is small enough, you can use the air dry (no heat) setting on your dryer along with a clean tennis ball. You can also line-dry, but you will need to turn and “fluff” the garment, sleeping bag, or blanket frequently to make sure the down distributes evenly.

• To maintain expensive or ultra-light jackets, dry cleaning really is the ideal choice, because the exterior fabric is often extremely delicate and can be easily damaged by regular washing machines!

To Store Down Properly:

To keep feathers and baffles in good condition, down items should be stored loosely. Don’t store sleeping bags in stuff sacks; rather, you should use the large net bag that usually comes with your purchase. A laundry bag works, too.

Clean comforters can be rolled or folded along baffle lines and kept away from direct sunlight or moisture.

Finally, remember that when it’s time to store your cold-weather items for the season, make sure it’s all completely clean AND dry to protect from feather-loving microbes and mold!

Although it may seem like a lot of work, regularly cleaning and properly storing down-filled items will significantly increase their lifespan.

What Exactly is "DWR" Down?

Durable Water Repellent (DWR) is a fairly new treatment that coats individual down feathers with a water-repelling agent. DWR-treated down can now be found in many sleeping bags and jackets. DWR does help down feathers retain loft in moist environments, but it’s not complete protection.

You still need to protect your DWR down garments from extreme moisture like rain. If you’re skiing or engaging in any of Utah’s other outsole winter activities, make sure you brush any snow off before you head inside! DWR-treated items should be cleaned and stored the same way as regular down.

Fun fact: when you use a down-specific wash for DWR (or take it to the dry cleaner), the water-repellant qualities of the treatment will actually increase!

Do Down Alternatives Get The Same Treatment?

Synthetic stuffing has a few advantages: it’s generally cheaper, stays warmer if it gets wet, and can be easier to maintain. On the other hand, down alternatives are heavier, not as compressible, and not quite as warm as the real stuff. Although synthetic materials are often simpler to clean, read the label first. Some garments may still be delicate enough to be dry-clean only. Do not use heat or harsh detergents. Just like real down, synthetic-stuffed items should be cleaned before storage and folded loosely, away from direct sunlight or moisture.

The experts at Red Hanger Cleaners have been getting tough stains out of delicate rugs, suits, blouses, and everything else for more than 50 years. Contact us now and schedule a free pickup!

Cool weather is on the horizon, and many of us are switching out our summer dresses for winter wear. Wool is an ancient cold-weather staple, but newer milling techniques mean that we've come a long way from scratchy, rough sweaters socks, and hats. Since high-quality wool garments are often expensive investment pieces, make sure that you know how to properly care for this unique and time-tested fabric! Besides wool itself, the we will also be talking about cashmere and merino. Understand the difference between wool, cashmere, and merino, and learn how proper storage and cleaning will extend the lifetime of these garments .

Wool, Merino, Cashmere: What's the difference?

Although care instructions are somewhat similar for cashmere, merino, and wool, it's important to understand the difference between these materials. Keep in mind that the same storage rules apply to all types of wool (and all other natural-fiber based clothing). Before storing for the season, make sure it's clean and completely dry. This is especially true with wool and silk!

Areas that have odors will not only "set" over time, they will attract moths and other pests as well. Besides making sure items are clean, to be extra-sure that your wool (or cashmere) is protected from pests by storing with mothballs. Tip: cedar chips work too, and have a less distinctive smell. Hang bulky items in zipped garment bags in the closet, or gently fold items and place in a container that provides protection from dust and direct sunlight. If you follow these tips, you should be able to get rid of the pests with no trouble at all. Unfortunately for some people, this isn't the case, especially when you have let the odor linger for too long. And this is when you need to think about finding alternative help. Pest control experts, similar to this one that you can find in New Jersey, (https://www.pestcontrolexperts.com/local/new-jersey/) will be able to help get rid of your problem for good. To stop this from happening again in the future, it is important that you follow the necessary precautions so that you don't ever have to see these pests in your home again.

Wool and Cashmere?

Many people are surprised to learn that cashmere actually comes from a goat native to the high mountains of central Asia. Traders historically referred to this animal as a Kashmir goat, and presumably this is how the "cashmere" name originated. Why is cashmere so expensive? Each cashmere-producing goat can only supply 3-5 oz per year! Besides being extremely soft, high-grade cashmere can be up to 8x as warm per weight as regular sheep's wool. If you see cashmere pieces that have prices that seem too good to be true, beware. There are multiple grades of cashmere yarn. Besides buying your cashmere from a trusted brand, check the label to see if other materials have been added. Pure cashmere is labeled as dry-clean only for a reason. Although special detergents exist to hand-wash cashmere at home, dry cleaning is the most reliable way to clean this luxurious, expensive type of wool.

What's Merino Wool?

Merino wool is named after the Merino sheep, which originated in the highlands of Spain and Portugal. These days, New Zealand produces a significant amount of the world's merino wool. Merino is simply a sub-type of "regular" wool, and it's known for being durable and soft. Just like with cashmere, however, it's important to carefully check the source and label of your merino products. There are also multiple "grades" of merino and it is often blended with synthetic materials or other types of natural fiber (including cashmere). Although merino blends are popularly advertised as being easy to care for, extend the life of these garments by hand-washing in cold water and air-drying flat. Washing merino blends in the machine with warm water and/or throwing in the dryer can cause shrinkage and fabric damage, even in merino blends. For expensive or bigger items, dry cleaning is the best way to make sure the fabric lasts.

Does wool have to be dry cleaned?

Although some wool blends have labels that indicate they can be machine-washed, hand-washing or dry cleaning is the best way to prolong the life of wool-containing garments! For cashmere, you should most definitely dry clean. Some merino or regular wool blends can be gently hand-washed and air-dried away from direct sunlight.

Wool coats, sweaters, and other large pieces are often expensive. Make sure you spot-treat any small stains or spills immediately! As we've said throughout this article, the life of expensive investment pieces can be significantly extended by immediately treating stains, dry-cleaning when soiled, and making sure that all items are completely clean before putting away for the season.

Take advantage of our free pickup and drop-off services.

The experts at Red Hanger Cleaners have been getting tough stains out of wool sweaters, wool-blend suits, cashmere cardigans, and everything else for more than 50 years. Contact us now and schedule a free pickup!

At Red Hanger Cleaners, we've had been working with Wasatch Front families and professionals to dry clean and perform wash-and-fold services for over 40 years! We are fairly certain that we've seen every possible type of stain there is, and we're glad to share our experience.

Before trying to tackle tough stains, especially on potentially sensitive fabrics, it's always best to educate yourself to avoid making the situation worse. This month: we tackle the two most difficult stains to get out, according to Consumer Reports Magazine. Remember, if you need a personalized answer for clothing or fabric care answer, please contact us and we'd be happy to help!

Hot Milk Chocolate Drink Stain

Hot chocolate not only contains a highly-pigmented liquid (chocolate), it contains protein in the form of milk (and maybe cream or marshmallows if it's extra-fancy. Not to mention, it's hot! The added heat helps the stain set to your carpet or favorite shirt in no time. Here's what needs to be considered and why this stain was considered the most difficult after Consumer Reports performed hundreds of stain tests!

• First of all, don't burn yourself! Immediately remove any piece of clothing that has contact with you (or your child's) skin.
• Get cold water on the stain- ASAP! The warmth opens the pores of fabrics and allows stains to penetrate more deeply.
• Get rid of the pigment (and sugars) by gently blotting up as much as you can with paper towels or a clean cloth. Take care not to press the stain more deeply into the fabric- be gentle!
• Wash the soiled cloth with cool, soapy water. Rinse several times.
• Now, you have to get rid of the second part of the problem: the fat and protein in the milk, which makes it not only bind more tightly to most fabrics, but will lead to an extremely unpleasant smell if left untreated. Blot the area with a diluted de-greasing agent like citrasolve, making sure to test in an inconspicuous spot first.
• After these two steps have been taken, reevaluate the situation in the context of the type of fabric involved. If there is still a stain, you may need to try hydrogen peroxide, and if that fails, bleach may be your only other alternative. If it's synthetic, silk, your Grandmother's lace tablecloth, other delicate fabrics, please call us for help first before you ruin a family heirloom!

Baby Poo Stain

For environmental, health, or economic reasons, many families are going back to cloth diapers. We've covered this in a previous post, but it's worth revisiting, now that Consumer Reports has weighed in on the matter and we have so many young families in our community.

Hold your nose, follow these steps to clean cloth diapers, and you'll be fine!​

• Remember to wear gloves or wash your hands thoroughly with soap and hot water--sing "happy birthday" to yourself twice while scrubbing-- after dealing with any fluid like blood, vomit, urine, or feces! Dry your hands thoroughly when finished washing. Don't forget to wash your hands again before preparing food.

• Get rid of the "solids", most families prefer the "dunk and swirl" method. Place the soiled part of the diaper under the toilet's waterline and flush. This should pull off most of the solids. Braver parents may reserve a special spatula to be used for this purpose alone.
• For dirty diapers or other tough stains that you will be laundering, always take advantage of the "prewash" or "pretreat" setting on your washing machine. This can help with tougher stains for the same reason as the hot chocolate trick above-- or similar stains like blood or vomit.
• Now, wash (separately, we probably don't need to say) the diapers in hot water with an oxygen-based cleaner or color-safe bleach. If the cloth is white, add bleach according to directions.

If you have an extra-serious stain mishap, especially with tough-to-deal-with fabrics, Red Hanger Cleaners can probably help! Don't lose hope; contact us today and we may be able to help. We have locations open six days a week including free scheduled pickup and drop off services all across the Wasatch front for your convenience. Additionally, we always have a monthly special; visit the page for extra savings.

A suit or tuxedo really comes together with a tie or a bow tie, especially if the tie is made of high quality fabric. Adding a tie can give a suit an entirely different look based on the color and texture of the fabric chosen. So what happens if you spill something on your tie like food or juice? Is it something that you can clean at home? Below, we will take a closer look at while it is best to dry clean ties.

So... Is it okay to clean my tie?

Absolutely, and honestly, dry cleaning is the best option for removing any stains. If the suit tie or bow tie is high quality it is probably made of fabrics and materials that do not respond well to water. Fabrics, such as silk, should always be dry cleaned. When water is used to clean silk the fabric has a tendency to stretch and shrink. Additionally, water can cause certain dyes that are used in silk garments to run or discolor resulting in a damaged suit tie.

How is Dry Cleaning different?

Unlike a traditional washing machine at home that uses water, dry cleaning does not use water as the main solvent. Instead, a petroleum based chemical is used in the process. This is because several materials respond better to the chemical. When a tie is dry cleaned the solvent is applied to clean the tie.

Once the tie is cleaned the solvent is extracted to be used again on other materials.The tie is dried and pressed pressed and ready for the customer to take home. The cleaning process is more gentle and will keep your high quality suit ties looking sharp.

I have a stain, what should I do?

The first thing is to check the manufacture's tag on the tie. If the tie is a dry clean only item it is best to take the tie to a professional dry cleaner to attend to the stain. In the immediate time frame be sure to blot the stain to remove any excess liquid from the tie. It is important to always blot with a clean, white towel or napkin. Blotting will contain the stain whereas wiping or rubbing can cause the stain to spread or move deeper into the fabric. Be sure to use a white towel to prevent any colors from spreading from the towel to the tie. The most important factor for removing a stain from delicate materials is time. Make sure to get your tie to be dry cleaned as quickly as possible. The less time the stain has to sit on the tie the better the chance of successfully removing the stain.

Stained tie? Confusion over tags? Contact Red Hanger and we'd be happy to help out! Don't forget, we offer FREE scheduled pickup and drop off services! And, be sure to check out our blog post "Top 3 Tips For Buying Business Clothing" to learn more about what pairs perfectly with a tie.

At Red Hanger Cleaners, we've had decades of experience performing expert dry cleaning as well as wash-and-fold services. It goes without saying that if it can be stained, we've probably had to deal with it! When in doubt, it's always best to educate yourself before you attempt to clean tricky fabrics or expensive items. Read on for more summer stain tips on two common cleaning questions we can help with: Cleaning Leather/Pleather and canvas (especially shoes). If you need a personalized answer clothing or fabric care answer, please contact us and we'd be happy to help!

Cleaning Leather vs Pleather: What You Need to Know

Many people choose leather or faux leather couches for their perceived durability, ease-of-cleaning, and neutral look that can go with almost any room. It's important to know the upsides and downsides of both of these types of upholstery, whether you have just purchased a new piece of furniture and want to prepare for future mishaps or a spill has just occurred!

First, it is real or fake?

If you've just purchased the item brand-new, you probably know. However, if it's a hand-me-down, or was bought second-hand, it's important to know whether you're dealing with pleather or true leather before you decide the course of action to take after something has been spilled.

• "Pleather" fabrics have gotten much more sophisticated so it's no longer always possible to tell the difference to tell from a quick visual inspection. Real leather will, however, always have individual imperfections in the grain and texture.
• Besides looking more uniform, pleather will have perfect edges and will likely have a "plastic" oder that is very different from true leather. The easiest way to tell, however, is the "push" test: press the fabric with a finger and if you observe that it stretches and the indent holds, you most likely have synthetic leather.

Pleather upholstery tips

Besides costing significantly less than real leather, pleather upholstery is much easier to clean, particularly in the case of liquid spills. It also is less likely to be damaged by UV light and requires no pre-treatment or conditioning. For ease of cleaning alone, synthetic "leatherette" materials can be a great choice in households with young children. The downside is long-term durability: pleather can and will puncture and tear more easily than real leather.

• When using any chemical other than a damp cloth or mild soap and water, always do a spot test, even if it's synthetic. Some harsh cleaning agents can break down the plastic-based fibers.

• First, use a clean cloth or paper towel to dab at liquids and/or remove any solids. Because pleather is non-porous, if you deal with a spill immediately when it happens, the material probably won't stain. As with most stains, results will be best when you deal wit them as soon as possible.
• For sticky substances, mix warm water with a small amount of mild dish soap and scrub the area with a rag or dish towel.
• Although water stains are unlikely, you should still dry the surface as best you can after you've removed the stain. A clean towel should do the trick. Now you're done! You don't need to worry about oiling or re-conditioning the surface.

Leather upholstery tips

Depending on the finish, condition, and age of the leather, you may be able to simply wipe the stain away. And remember, whether it's pleather, cotton, or real leather, time is not your friend! Begin working on a stain as soon as possible. This is especially true with real leather.

• When cleaning real leather, always remember, less is more! Always try to take care of the stain by dabbing with a dry cloth first. Do not ever use abrasive cleaning materials.

• As stated above, use a paper towel dry cloth to get rid of any solids and as much liquid as possible by gently blotting.
• Also, if there's still a mess, your next choice is going to depend on whether you're dealing with suede or full-grain leather. If it's full grain leather, try a mix of warm water with a little bit of mild soap. If it's suede, try working on the stain with a small amount of rubbing alcohol using cotton balls. Keep in mind that suede can be very difficult to clean and it may be time to call the professionals.
• To prevent water stains, use a blowdryer on "cool" to dry the area completely once it's cleaned. For full grain leather, you should next apply your favorite conditioning oil to extend the life of the leather and make cleaning stains next time easier!

To bleach or not to bleach: White shoes, laces, and canvas

It's not quite Labor Day yet, and you may still be rocking your summer whites. Unfortunately, canvas shoes (like Toms) and canvas upholstery on outdoor furniture are both very prone to summer accidents like popsicle drips and mud. When focusing on summer stain tips, while it may be tempting to bleach canvas, the material may discolor. And, we therefore do not recommend using this method to get rid of tough stains! Instead, as soon as the spill happens, get to work. Dab as much as you can with paper towels or a clean cloth. Then, try working on the area with warm, soapy water and a dishcloth.

• Summer Stain Tips: If it's a wine, grass, or other highly-pigmented stain, another step is probably going to be necessary. Try this all-natural approach first: in a small bowl, make a paste of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and a small drop of dish soap. Using a clean scouring sponge or old toothbrush, scrub this mixture into the stain, let sit for 10 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly with warm water. Make sure you get all the paste off, or you may discolor the fabric!
• We also get questions specifically about shoelaces quite often. Fortunately, we have a whole post on this topic so that you can learn how to correctly clean white shoelaces!

If you have an extra-serious stain mishap, whether it's a cushion or shoe or anything in-between, Red Hanger Cleaners can probably help! Don't lose hope; contact us today and we may be able to help. We have locations open six days a week all across the Wasatch front for your convenience. Additionally, we always have a monthly special; visit the page for extra savings. And, be sure to read our second blog post "3 Tips For Quickly Removing Stains" and "The Two Most Difficult Types Of Stains According To Consumer Reports"  to gain more insight on caring for your stained garments.

An American flag is not just another piece of fabric, but an object to treat with reverence. Although a properly stored flag should avoid most spots and damage, if you're flying it outside, inevitably dust and dirt will accumulate. Tradition and etiquette around displaying the flag has a complex story and history. You probably already know, for example, that flags should never be flown upside down (it's a traditional signal of distress) or at night without a light.

However, it's also important to know that etiquette dictates you honor the flag by not displaying it if the fabric is dirty, torn, or worn out. There are several steps you can take to get the most out of your flag's life. First of all, upon acquiring an American flag, it is extremely important to learn how to both fold and store it properly. This should go without saying, but always make sure that it's properly dried out (ideally laid flat on a table in a well-ventilated room) if it gets rained or snowed on. You must also plan to clean it regularly (if you're flying it outside) to avoid long-term damage.

This leads us to our main point: eventually, even if you've been taking careful care of your flag, it will need to be cleaned. This is where it can get confusing. You probably know most of the typical "honor" rules here, including:

"No disrespect should be shown to the flag of the United States of America; the flag should not be dipped to any person or thing. Regimental colors, State flags, and organization or institutional flags are to be dipped only as a mark of honor."

That does not mean, however, that a flag needs to stay dirty! In fact, it's disrespectful not to clean your flag. At Red Hanger Cleaners, we are capable of dry-cleaning flags, uniforms, wedding dresses, and other precious objects with care, respect, and extensive professional experience. Our careful process ensures that the material is not only preserved, but comes out looking beautiful.

During the month of July, Red Hanger cleaners will be honoring our country and its patriots with free flag cleaning. Be assured that we are trained and experienced to respect the flag's code regarding handling and cleaning. If your flag needs attention or you have further questions, please contact us today!