Woohoo! The holidays are almost here! With all the excitement, cheer, laughter, food and gifts comes a few unwanted holiday stains on your most-loved garments. We all know how big of a role food plays during the holiday season and stains are bound to happen with all the excitement. Nothing puts a damper on the holidays like a huge mess on your most favorite outfit or your living room carpet.

Here at Red Hanger we are ready to help you with any stains you may acquire on your clothing, rugs, or blankets this holiday season. Read more to learn about some essential tips to keep in mind in order to stay clean and tidy before the holidays.

Holiday Food Prep

The holiday season includes a lot of meal prepping. Therefore, it's super important to always prepare food in advance! Prepping includes the chopping, dicing, sautéing, grating and slicing tons of veggies, meats, and bakes goods. If you are able to do all meal prepping the night before having guests and family over, the chancing of getting a stain on your garment is very slim. By doing this, you are less likely to become overwhelmed and stressed with cooking, prepping and baking the day of your gathering.

Remember, less holiday stress = less holiday mess!

Cake Frosting & Food Coloring Stain

While decorating your cakes and cookies with frosting and food coloring, chances are you may get a stain. Food coloring stains are not super easy to get rid of. You must treat these stains as soon as possible!

Dessert and Food Coloring Cleaning Solution:

First, scrape the excess off with a knife or spoon so it doesn't dry. Second, combine one cup of cool water, one tbsp. of white vinegar and one tsp. of liquid dish soap. Then, pour just enough to cover the stain. Allow the solution to soak for about 15 minutes. Next, take a white microfiber cloth dipped in cool water to blot away the solution along with the stain. However, if the stain remains, then make a solution of one cup warm water, one tbsp. ammonia and one tsp. liquid dish detergent, and that should do it! However, if it doesn't, contact Red Hanger for further assistance!

Butter and Grease Stains

Ugh! Butter and grease stains are the worst! Although butter and grease stains tend to stick are super hard to lift, by following our cleaning solution, you may have a chance to get rid of it, if you act in a timely manner after the stain occurs.

Butter and Grease Cleaning Solution:

First, blot the stain immediately with a microfiber cloth. And, be sure to use salt to soak up whatever possible. Never rub the stain! Then, use dish soap (they're made to lift grease) to spot-treat the stain. Rinse on the hottest setting, if possible. Some garments don't do well in hot water, so always follow instructions on the care labels. If it's not working, come to us! We are here to help.

Red Wine Stain

Unfortunately, there is always at least one person who's a bit clumsy and spills red wine all over their clothing and the floor during a holiday gathering. When caring for red-wine stain, always blot it right away with a white microfiber cloth until all of the liquid has been fully absorbed.

Red Wine Cleaning Solution:

Make a quick DIY solution of liquid dish soap (1 tbsp.), distilled white vinegar (1 tbsp.) and warm water (2 cups). Then, blot the stain. If your stain is still not coming off of the surface, contact Red Hanger to help with stain removal.

Remember red wine stains are almost a given when you're having a dinner. Therefore, it might be a smart decision to invest in stemless wine glasses for the holiday season. These wine glasses don't get as easily knocked over and spill.

Festive Drink Stains

Hot chocolate and eggnog holiday beverages can leave behind some ugly stains on your clothing garments. And, your beautiful rugs and carpets during the holidays. If this happens, it's super simple to care for the stains!

Festive Drink Cleaning Solution:

All you need to do is mix two cups of warm water and liquid dish soap (one tbsp.). Then, slowly sponge the solution into the stain and blot again with a dry microfiber cloth. However, if the stain persists, mix one cup of white vinegar and two cups of warm water. Then, gently work through the stain. Afterwards, rinse the surface again with warm water and blot the remaining moisture with a dry microfiber cloth. If the stain is not coming off after these steps, be sure to contact Red Hanger for assistance.

Red Hanger Is Here To Help With Holiday Stains

Red Hanger is here to help keep your most-loved garments and home rugs and blankets clean during the holiday. We want to ensure that you always have the proper resources at arm's reach to deal with unwanted spills and stains that may occur. Be sure to take a look at our published blog post to learn more about how to prepare your home for the holidays!

Velvet is a type of fabric that we are immediately drawn to when shopping for apparel. Velvet shirts and dresses are super stylish to wear all year long. However, it's important to know how to keep your most-loved velvet fabrics clean. Especially if you have a stain on them. Keep reading to learn how to care for and clean your velvet fabrics.

Caring for Velvet Fabrics

When your velvet garment becomes stained because of food or body oils/odors, it's best advised to bring your garment to a professional dry cleaners to undergo professional cleaning. Dry cleaning overall protects the velvet fabric from the exterior to the interior of the garment.

Removing Odors From Velvet Fabrics

Hanging up your garment over a bathtub filled with hot water is the best way to remove unwanted odors from your garment. These odors may consist of food spices or cigarette smoke. The steam from the bathroom will allow the unwanted odors on your velvet clothing to eventually vanish.

First, allow the steam to penetrate the fabric for at least ten to fifteen minutes. Then, allow the velvet garment to air dry at room temperature. It is best advised to use a padded hanger in order to prevent shoulder marks from being left on your garment. Read our latest blog post titled "Different Types Of Hangers For Your Clothes" to learn more about choosing the perfect hanger for your velvet clothing.

Removing Stains From Velvet Fabrics

If a spill or a stain happens to occur on your velvet fabric, use a dull-edged knife or the edge of a credit card to lift away any solids that may appear. Next, use a plain white cloth to gently blot any any liquid residue. Never rub or attempt to clean the stains with any random cleaning product. Instead, heading to your local dry cleaners will allow your velvet garments to receive the best results and undergo cleaning methods that will allow the garment to look as good as new.

Ironing Velvet Fabrics

Normally, it is best advised to never iron velvet clothing. However, steaming is the best option! Ironing tends to crush the pile of extra fibers on your velvet clothing and leaves a permanent imprint. Ironing can ultimately do damage to the velvet fabric.

Needle boards are the best way to achieve professional-looking flat seams in your velvet fabrics. When using, lay your velvet garment nap-side down on the stainless steel needles. A needle board prevents the pile of velvet or velveteen from being crushed. The needle board's covered in tiny stainless steel crooked pins about 1cm high which can burrow into the velvet pile and retain the pile as is.

Steaming Velvet Fabrics

Steaming velvet clothing removes all wrinkles from the fabric. To start, hang your velvet garments from a shower rod and move the steamer up and down the garment slowly. Do this approximately 1/2 inch from the garment. However, never hold the steamer too close to the garment or remain in one spot for a long period of time or you will end up damaging the material. Steam will help remove unwanted odors as well as unwanted creases that come from sitting down for long periods of time while wearing your velvet garment. Always steam on the wrong side of the fabric only. Overall, never allow your velvet garment to become too wet.

After steaming the garment, give the fibers a light brushing with a soft bristled clothes brush to remove any unwanted lint on the garment. However, if your velvet clothing is still wrinkled, it's best advised to bring it to your local dry cleaners to undergo professional cleaning.

Storing Velvet Fabrics

Hanging up your clothing as opposed to folding is a must! Folding your velvet clothing results in creases that are difficult to remove. Although, if you still choose to fold your velvet clothing, pad the folds with acid-free tissue paper to prevent creases. Next, use a sturdy, padded hanger to prevent shoulder marks on your garment.

Cover the shoulders of the garment with easy-to-wash cotton fabric such as a bed sheet or a pillowcase in order to protect the velvet from acquiring unwanted dust and dirt. For long-term storage, always use a breathable, washable fabric storage bag, preferably cotton. Never use plastic bags when storing your velvet clothing. Plastic can trap moisture that can damage fibers and cause mildew growth. Store all velvet clothing in a cool, dry area that does not have huge temperature swings or receive a lot of sunlight.Have questions in regards to how to properly clean and care for your velvet fabrics? Feel free to contact Red Hanger today. We are here to help!

 

Suede coats are perfect to wear during the cooler seasons. They surely are a fashion statement with their soft textures and luxurious look. Although they can be quite expensive at times, they are definitely more breathable and cooler compared to full grain natural leather coats. Suede is a more high-quality form of leather, made from the underside of the animal hide. It's characterized by a soft smooth surface that easily attracts dust and absorbs stains like oil. While some small stains on suede coats can undergo treatment at home, it is highly advised for a professional dry cleaner who specializes in leather care to clean your suede coats. Whether you own an all-natural suede coat, jacket, vest, purse, hat, or shoes, by following our cleaning tips down below, its guaranteed that your suede garments will remain stain-free and luxurious looking for the years to come.

What Materials Will I Need?

• Suede Brush
• Microfiber Cloth
• A Pencil Eraser or Art Gum Eraser
• Blunt Knife or Plastic Edge
• Emery Board Nail Filer
• A Paper Towel or Napkin
• Cornstarch or Baby Powder

Food Stains in Suede

When you get food or wet mud on your suede coat, never rub the stain. Rubbing the stain will only drive the stain deeper into the fibers of the leather. Use a blunt knife to lift away as much of the wet stain as possible and always use a light touch. If the stain is due to a liquid matter, then use a paper towel or a clean, white cloth to blot away as much of the stain as possible. Put the cloth directly over the stain and apply some pressure to draw the moisture away from the suede and into the cloth. Then, allow the coat to dry naturally with direct sunlight or heat.

Dried Stains in Suede

Once the stained area has dried naturally, it is much easier to treat. After every treatment on the suede coat, brush the affected area thoroughly with your suede brush to restore the smooth fabric. First, gently rub the affected area with a microfiber cloth then use a pencil eraser to gently rub away the stain. Lastly, gently rub the stained area with an emery board nail file to remove whatever is left of the stain.

Oil Stains in Suede

When dealing with oil in suede, always treat the stain as soon as possilbe !The longer oil stains remain on your fur coat, the deeper they get into the fibers of the coat. If a little bit of oil drips on your fur coat, then blot the stained area with a napkin or a paper towel. Do not add water to the stain area or rub into it.

Absorb the oil...

Sprinkle baby powder or corn starch on the stain in order to absorb the oil. After approximately an hour, the powder will begin to have an oily look. When this happens, brush away the powder with a soft brush. If you feel the need to leave the powder on the stain for longer than an hour, that is totally okay! If the oil stain is completely dissolved, then  begin to brush the coat with your suede brush. However, if the stain is still visible on the brush, you can add more powder for a longer period of time until no more oil is absorbed in the coat. Or, bring your coat to your professional dry cleaner for a cleaning.

Sticker Residue in Suede

Believe it or not, sticky name tags, stickers, or tape can leave an unwanted residue on your suede coats after being pulled off. It's advised to avoid stickers on your suede coat if possible. However, if sticker residue is left behind on your suede coat, it is important to slowly remove the stickiness from the coat. Here's how...

• Remove the Sticker

If you are having trouble taking the sticker off of your coat, dampen the coat lightly with a wet paper towel. Use the edge of a blunt knife to gently scrape the sticker away

•  Air - Dry

After removing the sticker, allow the area to air dry with direct sunlight or heat. If the residue it very light on the coat, try brushing the affected area with your suede brush.

•  Erase the Sticky

If the residue still remains on your coat, try using an art gum eraser. Do not scrub the area, instead use gently strokes. The eraser should pick up any left over glue on your coat that is left in the fibers.

•  Use an Emery Board

At this point, if the suede brush and art gum eraser didn't remove the stickiness, use an emery board to gently rub the area. Use the emery board very lightly in order to prevent rubbing away the texture of the fabric.

How do I keep my suede coat clean longer?

• Never allow your suede garments to remain wet for a long period of time. Hang your coat up and allow it to air dry with direct sunlight or heat exposure.
• Wear a scarf around your neck to prevent body oils from transferring to the collar of your coat.
• Bring your stained suede coat, jacket, vest, hat, purse, or shoes to Red Hanger for professional cleaning. The longer the stain remains on the suede material, the more difficult it will be to remove.

How Often To Clean Suede

Using a soft-bristled suede brush after each time you wear your suede coat helps remove soil and loose dust. If you brush your coat regularly, this will delay the need for professional cleaning. If caught in the rain while wearing your fur coat, allow the damp suede material to dry away slowly from direct sunlight or heat. Keep in mind, a suede coat must undergo professional cleaning if it  develops odors from perspiration. Or, if it  has significant stains that are difficult to get off. The coat always needs cleaning prior to being put away in storage at the end of the season. Since leathers require special chemicals and equipment for cleaning and dyeing, we have partnered with leather specialists that have been in business for decades. Contact Red Hanger today to learn more about the cleaning process for all suede garments.

With proper care, your favorite white fabric shoes will surely maintain their gorgeous structure and comfortable inner supports. Unfortunately, nothing stops dirt from accumulating on the surface and transforming your beloved shoes into a hot mess, especially because white shoes are remarkably easy to get dirty. Also, since they're made of cotton they are highly absorbent and can hold onto stains all too easily. If you do not remove the dirt, it could settle in the fabric threads and leave stains all over. Thankfully, even when that happens, you can restore your shoes to their former glory by performing just four easy cleaning steps. Here's how to proceed with this task.

What You Will Need:

• Scrub Brush/Old Toothbrush
• Small Mixing Bowl
• Five Gallon Bucket
• Baking Soda
• Bleach or Hydrogen Peroxide
• Distilled Water
• White Towels

If you do not have bleach, or cannot work with this cleaning product, you may use a three percent hydrogen peroxide solution instead.

1. Create Your Cleaning Solutions

To thoroughly clean the dingy fabric and rubber surfaces on your shoes, you must create two separate cleaning solutions.

The first solution is used for soaking the fabric to loosen dirt and grime. You must pour a gallon of distilled water in your five-gallon bucket, and then add either 1/2 cup of bleach or one pint of hydrogen peroxide.

​The second cleaning solution is a simple paste used for scrubbing tough stains and the rubber elements on your fabric shoes. Mix up three tablespoons of baking soda with an equal amount of distilled water in a mixing bowl to create a thick paste. If your paste does not have the consistency you want, either add more baking soda or water to alter its structure.

​2. Scrub Out Stains

​Start the cleaning process by scrubbing the stains and rubber elements with a small amount of your baking soda solution on your cleaning brush. Make sure to press relatively hard while scrubbing in circles to loosen the dirt and debris stuck on the surface of your shoes. Thoroughly scrub the inner lining of your shoes to neutralize odors lingering inside those fibers. Continue gently scrubbing the shoes until all dark stains are removed.

3. Soak Shoes

​To brighten the white fabric on your shoes, you must place them in your prepared soaking solution for at least four hours. The bleach or hydrogen peroxide will gently lift dirt and grime from inside the fabric while lightening the pigments in the threads. After the first four hours are up, lift your shoes out of the bucket to check out their tones. When your shoes finally look bright white again, hold them above the bucket to let the excess water drain away, and then place them on an old towel for about an hour.

4. Set Out To Dry

Once the shoes have stopped dripping excess water onto your towel, push a white hand towel into the toe box of each shoe. The hand towels will help soak up excess water and hold the shape of the shoes while they start to dry. You will need to place the shoes in a warm, dry area of your home for several days to allow the fabric to dry. Remove the hand towels on the second day of drying to help the toe box finish drying out.

Once you have mastered the process of cleaning your white fabric shoes, you will never again have to worry about getting this wardrobe staple dirty on your travels.

​5. Use Baby Wipes for Touch-Ups

​For small stains, it can help to have a pack of baby wipes on hand. Consider keeping a small pack on your coffee table or somewhere else near your couch. Then, attack little stains and spills as they occur. Also, feel free to read our published blog post "How To Clean White Chucks" to learn more about shoe cleaning.

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Some time ago a human or pet, had an accident on one of your mattresses. You just discovered the evidence of this accident long after the urine dried up.

You don't have to put up with the stain or odor just because it's old. We're here to let you know that cleaning urine from a mattress doesn't need to be difficult, complicated, or expensive.

In fact, the best method is only a few steps long, with supplies you probably have in the house, and will have you back in bed and dreaming peacefully in no time.

What You Will Need:

• Dry Sponge or Scrub Brush
• Water
• Rubber Gloves
• Portable Vacuum Cleaner
• Borax or Baking Soda
• Hydrogen Peroxide or Vinegar
• Any Enzyme-Based Cleaners 

Option A) Household Cleaners

Gather a dry sponge, some water, borax or baking soda, rubber gloves, hydrogen peroxide or vinegar and a portable vacuum cleaner.

Put rubber gloves on both hands. Wetting the sponge, dampen the stained area, but do not soak it. Your aim is to dilute the urine and its odor. Sprinkle borax liberally on the stain, covering every bit.

Work the dry borax into the stain. Try to work it below the surface of the mattress cover.

Leave the stain covered for several hours. Accelerate the drying process by putting the mattress in full sunshine. Again, turn on a fan or open windows for increased ventilation.

With the vacuum cleaner, remove all the powder. If you use a large amount of borax, you'll have residue to clean away. Borax can be toxic and you don't want anyone sleeping on the mattress to suffer ill effects.

Option B) Enzyme-Based Cleaners

Browse the pet supply store or cleaning aisle of your grocery store. Look for enzyme-based cleaners. These work by binding with, and destroying the uric acid in urine.

Dry enzyme products mixed with water work by breaking down the uric acid into a gas of water and oxygen that evaporates into the air. Using product directions, mix the powder with fresh water. Pour the solution onto the stain so it soaks as deep as the original urine did. Allow this to dry for eight hours. Vacuum dried residue up.

Look for a plant-based enzyme solution. This digests the uric acids that have crystallized over time. Again, spray enough solution that is equal to the amount of urine on the mattress. It needs to soak in.

If the stain is really difficult or old, "flood" the surface and cover it with plastic wrap for one or two full days. Allow this to air-dry. Repeat until the entire stain is gone. Remove cleaner residue with a small amount of water. Blot this away with several layers of paper towel.

If you need the mattress available quickly, speed the drying process with fans. This allows air to circulate in the room and speed up the drying process.

Option C) Dish Detergent and Essential Oils

Liquid dish detergent, added in a small amount, helps with cleaning and removing a dried urine stain from your mattress. While the essential oil won't aid in the cleaning, it will help to neutralize that musky odor. Lavender essential oil is a particularly good choice because this scent helps the person using the mattress to relax and fall asleep more quickly.

Add one drop of dish detergent and a drop of lavender essential oil to the hydrogen peroxide/water mixture. Use as instructed above and allow the mattress to air-dry.

Don't use more than one drop of dish detergent or it will be difficult to remove from the mattress' surface. Use essential oils with caution.

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Fake leather, faux leather, pleather - regardless of the name you use, this leather substitute lets you enjoy the look of leather without all the expense. To keep your furniture looking fresh and clean, however, it's critical to know how to handle stains.

What You Will Need:

• Dish Soap
• Laundry Detergent
• Spray Bottle
• White Towel
• Baby Wipes
• Leather Conditioner
• Vinegar or Alcohol

​1. Always Spot Test

​Before using any of the below tips on an actual stain, make sure that you test these methods. Don't wait for a stain to occur. Rather, make your cleaner, and try it out on an inconspicuous area of your couch. For example, the bottom of the back panel or underneath the armrest cover are both great spots for testing.

​Testing is essential to ensure that the stain remover doesn't take out the color of your upholstery or cause other reactions. If testing goes well, get ready to deploy the following tactics in your stain fighting arsenal.

​2. Prepare Cleaning Solution

​To be on the safe side, you should buy or make cleaner long before you ever see a stain on your fake leather couch. You can use a commercial cleaner designed for faux leather, but you certainly don't have to. It's easy to make your own cleaner.

​Simply, mix a few squirts of dish soap into some warm water. Dish soap is gentle, and it's particularly useful for food stains as it breaks down grease. If you like, you can experiment with adding a tablespoon full of laundry detergent, as you test the cleaner. To make dispensing the cleaner easier, consider putting it in a spray bottle.

3. Work Quickly

​For best results, you need to get on top of stains as soon as they happen. If you've spilled food, remove any chunks as fast as possible. Then, start blotting the liquid, using a clean rag or paper towel.

​Blotting is gently patting a towel on top of the spill to remove excess liquid. At this point, don't scrub - that will push the liquid deeper into the leather. Just gently blot until you've removed the excess moisture.

​4. Scrub The Stain

​Once you've removed the majority of the spill, you can start to scrub the stain. Spray the area with your cleaner - just mist the area at first and add more cleaner as needed. If you're not using a spray bottle, moisten a clean white cloth in your solution. Ideally, you need enough water to "wash" the stain out but not enough to drench the furniture.

​Gently scrub the stain in a circular motion. Make sure to change the part of your cloth you are using as it gets dirty. That's why it's important to use a white cloth - colored rags can get dirty without you noticing, and as a result, you may just scrub the dirt back into the upholstery.

​If it's a large stain, work on a small part at a time. As each section gets clean, move to the next section.

​5. Use Baby Wipes For Touch-Ups

​For small stains, it can help to have a pack of baby wipes on hand. Consider keeping a small pack on your coffee table or somewhere else near your couch. Then, attack little stains and spills as they occur.

​6. Condition

​After you've fully removed the stain and the area has dried, you may want to condition the faux leather. This is especially important if you see cracks or if the recently cleaned area doesn't match the rest of the upholstery. Buy a conditioner designed for your material of couch, and gently massage it in as needed.

Tip:

For set-in stains that went unnoticed or more stubborn stains like ink or dye, you'll need to dig deeper into your cleaning toolbox and grab the alcohol or vinegar.

1. Mix equal parts vinegar or alcohol and water.
2. Dip the cloth in the mixture.
3. Blot the stain.
4. Repeat using a clean area of the cloth.

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Winter brings snow, sleet, and piles of wet, soggy laundry. A quick walk to the mailbox can yield a heap of wet socks, drenched jeans, and soaking shirts. While some of us might be tempted just to shove all this extra winter laundry under the bed (not that we would...for shame…), winter laundry doesn't have to bring us to our laundry-carrying knees. Make a plan, execute, and sit back and enjoy a hot cup of cocoa without burying yourself in an avalanche of wet, soggy socks.

Sweaters

Wool, acrylic, cashmere; whatever the fabric, sweaters need love too. Before you toss a pile of sweaters into the wash, take time to check the care tag on each garment. Here’s a short run down on what to do with different common sweater fabrics:

• Acrylic: wash in warm to cold water with like colors on a gentle cycle. Place acrylic items in a mesh washing bag for extra care. Block out the damp sweater on a towel to dry, do not tumble dry.
• Wool: always wash wool in cold water. Heat in any for will shrink wool. Turn the sweater inside out and wash on a cold, gentle cycle with similar light or dark colors. Never put wool in the dryer. Shape and dry on a towel.
• Cashmere: Just...take it to a dry cleaner. Like Red Hanger!

Scarves, Hats, Gloves, Mittens and Other Accessories

Don’t forget the accessories! Scarves are worn next to the skin and accumulate sweat and odors, and hats - well it’s pretty self-explanatory why you need to wash those. Wash gloves, mittens, socks and anything else that comes in pair in a garment bag to avoid losing a mate. There’s nothing worse than a single glove. It’s just sad.

Store winter accessories in a waterproof plastic bin during non-winter months for easy access when the temps drop. 

Take Care of the Little Things

Don’t forget your underwear! Thermals and underoos can be washed on a regular cycle with similar colors. A mesh laundry bag is perfect for gathering up all those stinky unmentionables if you don’t have time to throw them in the washing machine right away. Always use a breathable bag to store dirty underwear in, it cuts down on odors and, well, having your underwear strewn all over your room.

Consider investing in a heavy-duty detergent like OxiClean for your under layers. Mix a quarter cup of detergent in a gallon of water and soak your underwear and thermals overnight before loading them into the washing machine.

Lastly, and this is a basic one, get yourself a good rack for hanging your heavy winter duds on before washing. Set it up in an out-of-the-way place in your home and hang things up as soon as you come in the door. The longer things sit in a pile on the ground, the more they will collect odors and start to mildew. Set up a drying station if you’re not able to to throw things in the washing machine as soon as you get home.

Winter shouldn’t be all about laundry. Watch those fabrics, keep gloves together, and skate through to an effortless snowy season.

As we pass the half way point of Spring, it is safe to say that the ski and snowboard season has come to an end. Even for those lucky enough to catch a few spring weekend day runs at Snowbird or Alta here in Utah's Little Cottonwood Canyon, it is now time to say good-bye and put away the gear for the summer. There is one last step before you pack your shell jacket, ski pants, helmet and goggles, and that is properly cleaning the waterproof material to make sure it is ready to go next winter. Washing your ski clothes or snowboard clothes takes extra attention and the proper supplies.

Protect Your Investments in Resort Gear

If you have invested in good quality waterproof clothing, you want to take care of these items so that they last for seasons to come. Waterproof pants and jackets are usually made of a lightweight nylon material and treated with special polymers that help water bead up and slide off. Improper care can result in breaking down this waterproofing material, which can leave you with a nice looking jacket but it won't keep you dry and warm. Some people will tell you to never wash these fabrics but if you are an active outdoors-person, you will start to notice that airing your laundry doesn't always get rid of the smell. Too much neglect and that nice Gor-Tex may start smelling like your old gym bag.

Care required for snow clothes may take a little longer or involve a different type of laundry soap, but it is worth it. If you clean up and properly store your skis, board and boots; your jacket and pants will appreciate the extra love as well. We have provided a few tips to make your end-of-season gear cleaning a little easier.

• Manufacturer's Instructions: every garment manufacturer includes proper care details sewn inside of the item. Make sure to locate this tab and review it before washing so that you are aware of any specific details. Check the seam that runs along the side of your torso, under the collar, or around the arm holes. If you can't find or have cut it off the garment, you can always check the manufactures website like Patagonia for example.
• Inspect for mud, dirt or debris: look over the outside of your garments and brush or wipe off any built-up mud or dirt. Too much debris can damage your garment in the washing machine while on spin cycle or possibly clog the drain pipe.
• Mind the zippers and flaps: Close and Velcro flaps, pockets or zippers that may be open. You don't want them whipping around damaging the garment material.
• Limit your load size: do not wash your snow clothes with any other types or clothing or fabrics. Also, wash only two items at a time. If you have a small washing machine, maybe in a dorm, take the extra time to wash them individually.
• Hang dry or tumble on low: Again, review the manufactures recommended care, lots of items are safe if dried on a low temperature. If in doubt or unsure, place them on a hanger and go the slow route to be safe.
• Special detergent only: Make sure your machine is free of any standard detergent, bleach or fabric softener you may use on a daily basis. You can even run an empty load with hot water to make sure it clean and ready. There are a couple companies that make special gear wash designed just for waterproof gear. And remember, even these formulas will eventually impact the waterproofing, so only wash sparingly. Most companies recommend no more than 5-8 washes.

Birkenstocks let you take a little of the comfort and breezy freedom of the 70s with you. However, these supportive, low-fuss shoes can sometimes get a little dirty. Although you don't want to toss your beloved Birkenstocks in the washing machine, cleaning them is easy with a little patience and the right tools.

Cleaning Suede Birkenstocks

Suede requires a gentle touch, so start by using a soft suede brush to clear off surface grit or dirt. Next, tackle the shoes one section at a time.

The Sole

Inspect the treads at the bottom and remove any bits of gravel or other things that have gotten stuck in there. Carefully brush grit out of any crevices in the cork sole. Then, to keep it from cracking or rotting, paint cork sealer along the exposed cork edges.

The Straps

Just a few minutes' cleaning will keep your straps comfy and supple. Apply a thin coat of leather cleaner onto the straps and buff in gently with a soft cloth. Don't completely soak the suede.

The Footbed

The footbed tends to darken and attract odors. Luckily, Birkenstock makes a product to handle both. You can purchase the Birkenstock cleaner and refresher. Apply a generous, even layer to the footbed and wipe off the excess. Otherwise, you can use leather cleaner and deodorizing spray. You may need to repeat this process twice for a heavily soiled footbed. Let your shoes dry completely, ideally in fresh air and out of direct sunlight.

Cleaning Leather Birkenstocks

Leather Birkenstocks may be tougher than suede, but they also require care to look and feel the best. Just like with suede Birkenstocks, you'll want to start by brushing away any debris or grit from the entire shoe. Then, take it section by section.

The Sole

Use a leather cleaner or a mixture of water and saddle soap. Apply it with a soft, dry cloth, working in small sections. Don't let the leather get too wet.

The Straps

A light cleaning with leather cleaner and buffing with leather polish should be enough here.

The Footbed

Try a Birkenstock cleansing product or leather cleaner. You may need to repeat this step; let the shoes dry completely between cleanings. Tough stains may be lifted by a mix of water and white vinegar. Again, apply sparingly and work quickly. You don't want to let the liquid soak in.

Let the shoes dry completely before wearing. Be especially careful that they aren't left in the sun. Finally, apply leather conditioner at least once every two years to keep the leather supple.

General Tips

• Clean your shoes regularly. The longer grit and stains sit there, the harder they'll be to remove. Also, grit in particular can scuff and scar the shoes' material.
• Spot-treat stains with a mixture of water and baking soda. Try to make it the consistency of toothpaste and use a soft brush to buff it in.
• If all else fails, take your shoes to a dry cleaner's. They have experience dealing with a wide variety of stained materials and can help you get your shoes back into great condition.

A genuine sheepskin rug can be a beautiful accessory to your home and interior decorating style. Many families who have invested in sheepskin rugs find that these luxurious rugs get handed down as family heirlooms. If you make the investment you are going to want to take the proper care of your rug or if you decide to get one from somewhere like Sheepskins NZ. Unless you live in a monastery where no one ever visits, and no children roam about, you will eventually deal with cleaning your sheepskin rug. Although most people are not aware of it, this chore can easily be done at home with a few simple tools. However, if you don't want to leave it up to yourself in case of further damage that can't be reversed, have a look into a professional cleaning service such as this area rug cleaning service in Chicago, IL or others and see what they're able to do for you.

Assemble Your Tools

Before you get started make sure to assemble the proper tools. To properly clean your sheepskin rug, you will need:

• Detergent specially formulated for sheepskin- a quick Amazon search will reveal several products created just for this chore.
• Microfiber cleaning towel- these can usually be found in the automotive section of any large retail store.
• Carding brush- this is a specially designed brush which separates the fibers of natural animal hair.
• Slow warming heat source- a fireplace or a radiant heater can do the trick.

Spot Cleaning

Spot cleaning can be easily accomplished with a small amount of wool/sheepskin detergent, water, a microfiber towel and a carding brush. Simply follow the cleaning directions on your rug’s tag, along with the instructions on the detergent. Clean gently following the grain of the fur until the spot is gone. Comb gently with the carding brush and then hang to dry in front of heat source.

Full Immersion Cleaning

You should be aware that full immersion cleaning can result in shrinkage. The shrinkage can be minimal so proceed with caution if you are uncomfortable with this side effect. If you do decide to immerse your rug, do so in a tub filled with cool water and sheepskin/wool detergent. Use your microfiber towel to gently clean any visible spots and to agitate the fibers of the entire rug.

Rinse off the detergent with cool water. It is not advisable to ring out the rug. This can affect the hide. Gently squeeze the water out by hand. This may take a while, but resist the urge to ring it out aggressively to speed up the process.

You will then need to hang your rug in front of a heat source for slow drying. Be sure to lay down towels to catch the dripping water. Comb/brush through the rug while it is still damp to make sure fibers are not matting together.

Day to Day Care

Before we get into the details of cleaning your sheepskin rug, it is important to note that there are a lot of things you can do every day to increase the beauty and longevity of your purchase. Obviously, any item that is overused will show it. If your sheepskin rug is placed in a high traffic location or in an area prone to accidents, you will soon find that it’s beautiful appearance will fade quickly. Consider how you wish to use your rug. If you wish for your rug to remain as a lovely decorative accessory, display it in an area where it will not be subjected to much abuse.

It is also important to note that sheepskin rugs do not appreciate too much direct sunlight. The sunlight can cause the fibers to dry out and lose their coloring. Damp conditions are also not ideal. Sheepskin rugs will develop black mold if exposed to long standing moisture.

Washing a sheepskin rug should be done very seldom. For everyday cleaning, the rug can be shaken outside and brushed gently with carding brush. More about the carding brush in a moment.

If you follow the care instructions of your sheepskin rug you can look forward to years of enjoyment from this super soft material.